I love Merida and it is not just because in recent years it has become very fashionable. It has enchanted me for a long time -even with its high temperatures-, for its tranquility, its colors, its gastronomy, its architecture, its culture, its people and because it is very international. My passion goes beyond a weekend stay, Merida is definitely a city where I could happily live.
I don’t know what it will be like after the pandemic, but before it, the city was firmly committed to having a good cultural offer available to everyone, tourists and locals. I am a faithful believer that the cities that are investing in culture have a promising future.
If you have not gone yet and are considering visiting Merida, these are some highlights that I recommend you to see. I also advise you to stay there for several days, as there are many cenotes, small towns, the Celestún biosphere and nearby archaeological sites to visit. Now, let’s get to know the “white city”.
Paseo de Montejo
I am going to start with the most famous avenue in Merida and one of my favorites. I read that it was built between the end of the XIX century, beginning of the XX century, but it is here where you can best appreciate what was the golden age of henequen or the green gold era, with its beautiful European-style mansions. Some preserved, others converted into banks or shops and a few abandoned, but it is still a delight to see them and imagine what they would have been like in their good old days.
The beauty of walking this avenue is that with the wide sidewalks and its trees, the walk becomes more pleasant, especially in times of extreme heat. Among the most famous or most curious mansions are the so-called “twin houses”. By the way, one of them is already open to the public, the tour is very interesting and its interior is splendid.
I should not fail to mention the Monumento a la Patria, which cannot go unnoticed. Curiously, this monument erected in the middle of the XX century and which has the history of Mexico carved by hand, was made by a Colombian sculptor, Rómulo Rozo, who lived and died in this city.
Let’s go through squares and parks
Plaza Grande
Every city has a Plaza Grande where it all began, so I will start with the main square of Merida. I love it because it is huge, a typical Mexican plaza, full of people and vendors (I love shopping for food and souvenirs on the street). Also, here you find the typical “Merida” sign and the sillas confidentes or “you and me chairs”, so emblematic of Yucatan.
Around the square, you will find the most important buildings of the city, such as the Catedral de San Ildefonso (1598), which is the oldest in Mexico. The Museo Casa Montejo, another majestic construction from the mid-XVI century that belonged to the conqueror of the Yucatan Peninsula, Francisco de Montejo. Another building that stands out in front of the square is the Town Hall (1741), with its portals and the clock tower. Finally, the beautiful Palacio de Gobierno (late XIX century), which I recommend you to enter, to see its patio, the murals and the Assembly Hall.
Parque de Santa Lucía
If you walk along Calle 60 (another one of my favorites) from the cathedral to the Parque de Santa Lucía, you will pass through several interesting points, such as Parque Hidalgo, the church of the Third Order -which I think is beautiful-, Calle 57-A with its little coffee shops, the Teatro José Peón Contreras (I love the building and its pastel colors) and the impressive central building of the Universidad Autónoma de Yucatán (UADY).
The stroll is not long, but it is very entertaining because of the shops and buildings that will make you stop again and again to buy and take pictures. The Parque de Santa Lucía (which for me is more a square than a park) is really pretty, located in front of the church that bears the same name. This park is my favorite spot because it has many delicious restaurants that set up their terraces in the portals and on the square itself. Every Thursday at 9:00 pm, they do their serenade nights, with typical dances and the famous “Yucatecan pumps”. Imagine the tradition that has marked this event that, before the pandemic, had been taking place since 1965.
Other charming parks
I’m not going to much into detail -otherwise I will never finish-, but I recommend you also take a tour of the Parque de Santa Ana and the Parque de Santiago so you can admire their churches, which have beautiful architecture, and in their respective squares, there are markets where you can eat delicious local specialties such as chestnut and suckling pig tacos. As I usually have cravings, I always recommend that when traveling, you should try the food at the market stalls, very traditional things with homemade flavor.
Other parks with very beautiful churches are San Juan and especially San Cristóbal, where the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe is located. And so I could go along forever with the recommendations, this is Merida and it has beautiful corners everywhere!
Cultural spaces
Palacio de la Música
On Calle 59, you will find a new, very modern building that houses the Palacio de la Música, which not only has a concert hall, but also an interactive museum that teaches you from pre-Hispanic sounds to Yucatecan music. An obligatory stop for music lovers, especially in a state so rich in culture.
Gran Museo del Mundo Maya
Speaking of mandatory stops, you have to go to this museum because you are going to love it. I don’t know why it took me so long to visit it, as I always left it “for the next time”, but when we finally entered, I fell in love with it. On the outside, the building is spectacular, the work of the architects Josefina Rivas Acevedo, Enrique Duarte Aznar, Ricardo Combaluzier Medina and William Ramírez Pizarro.
Its three levels represent Mayan cosmogony of heaven, earth and underworld, united by a ya’axché (ceiba) tree. The museum has a very wide collection that teaches you history, gastronomy, textiles, religious elements and everything that takes you into the Mayan culture.
Gastronomy
If Yucatan has a great cultural richness, wait until you experience its gastronomic variety. Surely there will be many super delicious local restaurants that one as a traveler does not know about (which you can recommend in the comments ;-)). But I am going to mention the classics that I like and why. Remember that these recommendations are based on what I tried and liked, without the intention of excluding or offending anyone, for example I don’t like the recado negro, or certain Yucatecan dishes, that is why I did not include them. These are the places I always return to:
- Manjar Blanco: the best cochinita pibil and the service is excellent.
- Chaya Maya (Casona): a classic, I especially like this one because it is located in a very beautiful old house next to Parque Santa Lucía. Here, I like to order the queso relleno.
- Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca: this place is very chic and here I like the panuchos de cochinita, the sopa de lima and the poc-chuc.
- Mercado 60: a very nice gastronomic market with informal international food. The atmosphere that existed before the pandemic with live music was amazing.
- Mercado Gourmet del Paseo 60: a gourmet market with contemporary design. Here you have many options, both inside the market as well as around the beautiful square just in front. Here, they recently opened the Casa Manzanero museum, obviously dedicated to the Yucatecan singer-songwriter.
- Apoala: Oaxacan food is my favorite. I already wrote about this place in another post, for me being in Parque de Santa Lucía, having dinner with a tasajo oaxaqueño or a tlayuda, sounds like a super plan.
- Pueblo Pibil: although it is not in Merida, I add it because it is my favorite. It is located in the town of Tixkokob, about 20-30 minutes from Merida, but it is definitely worth the drive. This place is situated inside an XVIII century mansion, but with a very chic decoration, it specializes in cocina enterrada and the food is exquisite. Obviously, it serves a fabulous cochinita pibil, but also the queso relleno, the sopa de lima and especially the frijol con puerco are to die for.
- Hacienda Teya: you can’t go to Merida without visiting at least one hacienda. Teya(founded in 1683) is very pretty and you eat very well here.
Bars
To be honest, in my articles, I don’t really like recommending restaurants and bars because over time, the post stays, but some places may close or change in quality. Also when you travel, as much as you want to tell yourself “I’m not a tourist, I try to eat like a local”, it’s a lie, you always end up including recommendations from other travelers or moving around in the most touristy areas, as is my case every time I visit Merida. Here are the places where we like to go out for drinks:
- La Negrita: a super touristy cantina, I will not deny it, but very beautiful, founded in 1917. It has a very cool atmosphere, with live music and located inside an old house, with a huge patio. We love the cold beer on tap and finish the night with some mezcals, of which they have a great variety. The food is not bad, especially to nibble on while you drink. Patrick, as a Belgian in love with Mexico, is impressed with this cantina and it is difficult to get him out of there every time we visit Merida.
- Casa Chica: it belongs to the same owners as La Negrita. The bar is on Paseo de Montejo, it is very beautiful and has a very cool Miami-Cuba vibe. With a much calmer atmosphere than La Negrita, but very tasty for cocktails and a bite to eat.
- There are other bars like the Pipiripau and the Mayan Pub, which handle a similar concept, located in old houses, with tables in their patios and live music. Also very touristy, zero , but that make you feel like you are on vacation, where all you want is to have a drink, dance and have a great time.
- Bar Malahat: a hidden bar located in the parking lot next to Parque de Santa Lucía. It was the first speakeasy in Merida, very nice, cozy and its specialty are cocktails.
Surely, I am missing to mention many places, but it is very difficult to write an article about a city that offers so much. And I missed talking about its amazing hotels, especially boutique, located in old mansions, but I prefer to tell you one by one.
It is no coincidence that in recent years, Merida has established itself as one of the favorite destinations of travelers and that it has managed to sneak into the first places of awards granted by prestigious travel publications such as Travel+Leisure and Condé Nast Traveler.
If you are from Merida and you are reading this article, I would appreciate -together with the readers- that you recommend us your favorite places in the comments section, the more local they are, the better ;-).
Note: some of the photos were taken before the pandemic.
We know that it is time to stay at home, but when everything has passed and you want to travel again, remember that at our travel agency Tripdreaming, we organize everything 100% customized. For more information, please contact me at silvia.lucero@tripdreaming.com.
For editorial questions, please contact me at silvia.lucero@latrotamundos.com.
